UTOP X TGMT (When a computer gamer try to do stupid thing)

It started when the announcement for the Ultimate Trail of Penang (UToP) 100km came up in September 2018. The event was going to take place on 12th October 2019, it was my birthday so it was hard not to remember the date of the what could be known as the toughest 100km trail in Malaysia at that time. I was really waiting for the registration date to open at that time and when it did, there was no hesitation. 

But the trouble does not start there, it start when Team Pacat announces their toughest yet 100km trail, The Great Malaya Trail (TGMT). Initially, this event was supposed to be 2 weeks before UToP, I was tempted to try both even though two weeks was a short recovery period, but I should be able to do it. Then for some reason, the organizer decided to move TGMT one week after UToP... With UToP being so tough, I initially decided to let TGMT go...

Month passes and during these times, there was no thought of going to TGMT. What changes my mind? It started when my friend told me, I still too early to think about going fast in long-distance events, maybe I should slow down and focus on maintaining a strong pace and form first. These led me to go for my first back to back event.  Plus by accidentally registering for Rinjani Ultra, this will be sort of a good test to see where I am. 

As I left with one more week to UToP, I started to carb load and sleep early in preparation for the races. Diet isn't much difference but usually, I will take in more carb food. Also making sure I get at least 7-8hours of sleep everyday. (Though this isn't much as I heard some even sleep more than 9 hours..) Didn't do a lot of training anymore during this week and basically just rest it out for the event. 

October 11, one day before UToP. After collecting our race pack kit, we ate our dinner and went to bed as soon as possible as the event starts the next day at 4.00am. For this event, I wasn't stressed out or worry, it was more like excitement as I finally get to do a race with an elevation gain of more than 5,500m. (In Malaysia, the only event that has that much elevation gain is in Sabah...) 

October 12, 4:00am. Weather was cooling and everyone gather at the starting line like school kids waiting for the alarm bell to ring!
ULTIMATE TRAIL OF PENANG:
Ultimate Trail of Penang, 100km @ 6000m Elevation Gain or I would like to call it, Trans-Penang hike was not easy. One of the toughest 100km which does make TMBT 100km looks much more relaxing.

During the first 2km, everyone was already running as if we were running some short distance event... The first climb was not too bad, in fact I started overtaking as hiking tends to be my forte. After that, it was the first big hike, Bendera Hill up to Old Crag Hotel. During this climb, I was still on point and doing ok.

Then... I trip of the tree root at 15km which leads to cramps but manageable. It did spoil the race a bit as on and off, the cramp come. But I guess it also cause I was wearing the knee guard which after I took off at 30km, the cramp issue lessen but every uphill from here, my leg will start to feel wobbly but thank God for the medic at Pantai Kerechut, at least it made my climb up to Bukit Batu Hitam less hellish (still wanna cry though...)

At 49km, the thought of DNF, as always, lurks very closely as I burn a lot of time here and COT was very close now, I decided to push it off and just focus on the next cp instead of the whole race. Thankfully at 53km onward, it was mostly road and COT was much more plentiful for us to gain back...

After 22km of mostly road, we manage to gain back at least 3 hours from the COT and we took 30minutes to sleep here. Then midnight came together with the bitchy Laksamana and Tiger Hill... Luckily Min Fung was there (though we were pacing together since 53km) and we go through the night with many tears and blood. Microsleep on the trail after every 50 steps, whining and cursing at the never-ending uphill...

Thank God the morning rises and we manage to pull through and reach the finish line without to many problems! Heck, we were even running some of the downhill which really motivates us!

BETWEEN THE ONE WEEK:
After all of that, I was having a lot of doubts about the next event. Yes, I did finish UTOP without a lot of problems and it seems I should be able to recover for TGMT, but with the next event being much more wilder and raining season were at its peak, you can see why I very scare.

After that, I heard there were 3 of my friends doing TGMT also after UTOP (1 of them (Solo Soew) were UTOP100 and the other two (JW & SY) were top podiumer for UTOP). I was finally able to convince myself to go on and just take the event as a long hiking trip and training. If I have to DNF, then let it be...

THE GREAT MALAYA TRAIL:
TGMT was initially a 100km full raw trail event but due to landslide which fully blocked a part of the trail, it was reduced to 80km, though the Elevation Gain remains almost the same at 6000m...

Now when you thought UTOP is tough, TGMT is another kind of monster and since it was raining a lot beforehand, the trail was slippery and you are mostly on your own. Unlike MMTF which had ropes, here you use your fingers to climb...

I split TGMT into 3 sections to make it look less scary:
- Trans-Repin 24km @ 1500m EG
- Trans-Lentang Legong 25km @ 2000m EG
- Trans-Reverse Nuang 33km @ 2500m EG

The first 15km, the trail is mostly runnable but tend to get slippery. As if UTOP people were running fast, at TGMT everyone was like running as if they are running a half marathon but the COT looks much tighter than UTOP, it normal...

The road to Pondok Repin which is the first CP wasn't much of a problem and wasn't technical (it was all ATV off-road), I just had to calm myself down as quite a few runners were overtaking even at the uphill climb. But after Pondok Repin, this is where the real monster of TGMT truly comes alive. Already at 15km we were slipping and sliding trying to climb up to Puncak Repin.

After Repin, it was your typical jungle trail downhill all the way to Janda Baik... First stage of the event done and also the CP2, Trans-Repin took 5hrs40mins here... I eat a lot here as the next CP, CP3 is flipping 25km away with plentiful of EG...

This is also where Trans-Lentang Legong starts... Thing were actually ok from Janda Baik all the way to Puncak Repin but of course, trails are as technical as usual. The trail to Puncak Lentang Legong wasn't too bad as I recalled. I still took a while though as the trail was not runnable at all...

After reaching Puncak Lentang Legong, thing starts turning to hell very fast. Almost every downhill, I start using my butt to slide and every uphill you encounter, after climbing 2 steps up and grab the wrong tree roots, you going to drop 6 steps... And then it rains, making the place even more slippery and the weather was starting to get very cold from the wind...

The trail between Puncak Repin and Puncak Nuang was 10km and this 10km is the most hellish part of TGMT, took me 6 hours just to complete this route...

After reaching Nuang for the first time, it your typical trail down to Pangsoon trailhead, Hulu Langat (CP3). Trans-Lentang Lengong took me 11hrs30mins here... Rested and refueled an hour here and surprisingly not being too sleepy, I get ready for the last stage...

It was then the start of the last stage, Trans-Reverse-Nuang... Started the climb back up to Nuang at 1:00am, the dark and scary Nuang jungle was luckily being softened by my "pacer" Suparman. As we only had 8 hours to reach Nuang trailhead at Janda Baik, we push together all the way to Puncak Nuang under 4 hours... After eating some food here, we push again all the way to Nuang Trailhead at Janda Baik under 3 hours...

24hrs50mins at 7:50am, we reached Janda Baik (CP4 @ 65km) and there was the last section to go. With the sun shining bright, the trail was at least getting better and from here and knowing I had 11 hours to go, I started to just chill and finish the race without injury.

There wasn't much drama from here onward as I took it as a typical hiking trip and rested 5 minutes at every campsite all the way until the finish line!

CONCLUSION:
Both trails are tough and definitely make TMBT look easy. As there is a saying:

"There a saying where if they are your best friend, bring them to #TMBT. If they are your best enemy, bring them to #UTOP. If you want to lose your friend, bring them to #TGMT."

Coming from a hiker background and a runner wannabe, TGMT was definitely less mentally tiring for me surprisingly but it is definitely tougher than UTOP for me.

UTOP is more like a running event and the longest CP is 12km so one can actually not carry food and rely solely on CP food but for TGMT, you are going to be drinking river water and with the longest CP is 25km, you better bring some food for the trip, it more like a hiking event where you are mostly on your own and you have to learn to be self-sufficient in the jungle,,,






Trans-Chamah-Ulu Sepat

Distance: 65km
Elevation: 5000m
Rated: 9.5/10

Pos Rekom

Trans-Chamah-Ulu Sepat, where you hike from Pos Rekom to Gunung Chamah, then do a long hike to Ulu Sepat and the journey ends at Pos Lelar. The hike is known to be very tough and even for your typical hike across 5 days, you need to be fit to do this as once you are drop off at Pos Rekom, there is no turning back. A permit is definitely needed. Though forest guide is not needed, it is strongly recommended to bring someone who knows the route well as it can be confusing at time.

The hiking trail covers 2 of Peninsular Malaysia tallest mountain, Gunung Chamah (G5) and Gunung Ulu Sepat (G7). The area where they drop you off is usually right at a bridge where there nothing around. You have to walk around 6-7km (depending on where the 4WD drop you) to Pos Rekom which is not easy to begin with... 

We took Grab Truck, https://www.facebook.com/Grabtruck4x4/ into Pos Rekom from Mines Inn Hotel at Gua Musang.

Mines Inn Hotel from Monash University Sunway


4WD into Pos Rekom
GPX File Link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/04xqj5purnd96qa/Gua%20Musang%204WD%20to%20Pos%20Rekom.gpx?dl=0

https://www.strava.com/activities/2418900481
GPX File Link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/k65qdvtwsfxkt33/Trans_Chamah_Ulu_Sepat%20%281%29.gpx?dl=0
Once you reach Pos Rekom (6km), there a small hut on your left, we left some of our stuff in that hut in preparation to hike up Gunung Chamah since we are coming back down here after the Chamah hike. 

Pos Rekom, the hut is the first building one on the left
Pos Rekom "layout"

After that, we start our hike up to Chamah where our first stop is Camp Tengah (8.3km). Though no one stopped here at that time, so we continue on toward the second checkpoint, Camp Tongkat Ali (10.3km). This is also the last checkpoint for you to refill water, plus the distance to the peak from here is still far. We refill to the max at this point.




Camp Tongkat Ali Layout

After refilling and resting here, we continue our journey to Anak Chamah (12.4km). Most of the hiking path from Pos Rekom can be technical at some part but it was mainly easy and one can say it quite runnable. The trail up to Chamah Peak is beautiful in its own way.




Anak Chamah Layout

After some rest at the false peak (Anak Chamah), the trail starts to go down and back up again. After a short while, you will reach camp Cinderalla (13.7km). Head straight and shoot up all the way straight to the peak of Chamah (16.8km). Unfortunately, there isn't anything much up at the peak here, it more like an achievement thing to reach this peak. We stayed and rest a good while and then head back down to Pos Rekom.

After 28.3km and 10:15pm, 11 hours from the start of the hike, we reach Pos Rekom. We decided to sleep here for a while since some of us were very sleepy already. After taking in some solid food, we took a good 3.5 hours to sleep.

At 1.45am, we pack our stuff and continue our hike to Ulu Sepat. The trail starting from here to Camp Maggi is known to have a lot of wild animals crossing and you definitely don't want to encounter tiger or elephant alone in the jungle... So we decided to hike in groups from here onward. The trail from here onward is relatively flat but can be very raw at times since not many will hike through this path... Parang is relatively your good friend at this point.

Camp Sungai Peres (34.5km) will be the first campsite you will reach. You can choose to refill your water here or go for the next one which is Camp Maggi at 39.5km.


All of us are fighting off the fatigue at this point...

Camp Sungai Peres "layout"



Camp Maggi "layout"

Do note, at two of these campsites, there a lot of sandflies after a certain time of the day, so if you plan to camp at these spots, insect repellant is your best friend. After sleeping for half an hour at Camp Sungai Peres and another half an hour at Camp Maggi, the morning comes and we felt much better especially after having some hot drink.

Though do note after Camp Maggi, the hike from here will start to become very steep and will be mostly like this all the way until Gunung Ulu Sepat. Camp Maggi is also your last water point until Camp Sungai Lepir which is quite a distance. At 41.5km, you will reach Camp Sempadan, though there is nothing much here, the hike continue up to the next checkpoint, Puncak View at 42.5km.





After Camp Sempadan, though the trail may become steeper and tougher to climb, at least from here onward, the path is much clearer and isn't too raw. Marking at that time was also very clear. After Puncak View and a few more false peaks, you will start to climb down again... From here, it all the way down to Camp Sungai Lepir at 47km.



Camp Sungai Lepir "layout"

Do remember to refill here as Camp Sungai Lepir will be your last water point as the next one is at Camp Sungai Lenweng which is after the hike up to Ulu Sepat and back down the mountain. After refilling and resting, it the final push steep climb up to Ulu Sepat peak which is at 50.5km.

You will know you are close to the peak when you reach the beautiful mossy forest.





After that, you will reach a junction. go straight to the Ulu Sepat peak first, then only come back to the junction and head back down to Camp Sungai Lenweng.




For this view, you need to walk down from the peak a bit.
Ulu Sepat Peak "layout"

After all of that, it was time to go down. From here 15km, it all the way downhill, though the first few km of downhill can be quite technical but after that it almost runnable. At 55.5km, you will reach Camp Sungai Lenweng and 3 minutes later will bring you to Pos Sungai Lenweng.





Pos Sungai Lenweng Junction

 After Pos Lenweng, you will reach the same road as Gunung GBB at 57.6km, AKA the Ulu Sepat - Gereh, Bieh, Bilah Junction. If this is your first time coming down from Ulu Sepat, you definitely wouldn't notice this junction. If you do, go straight down, do not turn right which will make you start hiking up again and this is the wrong way!

At 59km, this is your last checkpoint before reaching Pos Lelar, Camp Sungai Y.

A Camp Site (6km)
Camp Site at 59km (Replace Camp Sg. Agek as Camp Sungai Lenweng and go toward the trailhead)
(The image is from GBB hike, but the road is the same nevertheless)

After this Camp Site, it all the way to Pos Lelar. 65km of climbing journey has finally come to an end. You can opt to do these two mountains separately, but by doing trans like this, you at least save on the boring 4WD ride. Oh yeah, even though you reach Pos Lelar, you still going to need to ride 4WD back to civilization!



Around 60km into Pos Kemar from Masjid Bawong

The dayhiker of CUS
Time Log for the hike:
1st June 2019
11:15 Start Hike
12:30 Pos Rekom (30m rest)
13:50 Camp Tengah
14:40 Camp Tongkat Ali (20m rest)
15:50 Anak Chamah
16:20 Camp Cinderella
17:50 Gunung Chamah (35m rest)
20:35 Camp Tongkat Ali
21:20 Camp Tengah
22:15 Pos Rekom (3h30m sleep & rest)
.
2nd June 2019
1:45 Leave Pos Rekom
3:50 Camp Sg. Peres (35m nap & rest)
6:00 Camp Maggi (1h15m nap & rest)
7:50 Camp Sempadan
8:15 Puncak View
10:00 Camp Sg. Lepir
11:55 Gunung Ulu Sepat
14:05 Camp Sg. Lenweng
16:40 Pos Lelar (end of hike)

(under 30 hours)
.
Overall it was a satisfying hike and happy that I have now completed my G7 and Peninsular G10 journey!


Last edited: 28 Oct 2019








Trans-Titiwangsa V2 (via Yong Belar / Camp Cabin/Kebun)

Distance: 75km
Elevation Gain: 5,200m
Rated: 10/10

Trans-Titiwangsa V2, not a name you will hear often and not many will organize a hiking trip for this. As this trail is known to be one of the toughest hiking trails in Malaysia, it is expected that hikers has to be extremely fit to attempt this!

This hiking trail covers 4 of the tallest Peninsular Malaysia mountain. Gunung Korbu (G2), Gunung Gayong (G4), Gunung Yong Belar (G3) & Gunung Yong Yap (G6). Typically, most hiker will start their hike from Yong Belar side as it will make the hike easier. Since Yong Belar elevation is much higher compare to Yong Yap trailhead, there would be much less elevation gain from Yong Belar. 

https://www.strava.com/activities/2381887921/overview
GPX File: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d248ec427o4deoe/Trans_Titiwangsa_V2.gpx?dl=0

The hike start at Camp Cabin/Kebun and the hike of Yong Belar is covered in this blog:

The hike for Trans-Titiwangsa V1 is covered in this blog:

And similarly to Trans-Titiwangsa V1, you will use the same route all the way until Gunung Korbu. The only difference this time after reaching Gunung Korbu, you have to come back to Gunung Junction to start your Trans-Titiwangsa V2 journey. The trail here is as raw as Trans-Titiwangsa V1 but it is quite open though can be quite badly overgrown at some part of the trail, please take note as there is a quite a number of minis junction which doesn't go the right way.

The hike from Korbu to Gayong is covered in this blog (do notes, for V2 you will only hike to Korbu peak and u-turn back to Gayong):
During this trip, do notes you have to bring a LOTS of WATER from Camp H2O as there won't be any water source from Camp H2O to Gunung Korbu and back to Gunung Junction and then continue all the way to Camp Lembah Agas to have your next water refill. 

That is about 21km with 1,800m of technical climb and it can take up to 16 hours (it might take longer or shorter depending on your pace). 16 hours without water source is something you have to take into serious consideration. In my case:
- Refill 2.5L of water at Camp H2O 
- Limit myself to drink only 500ml during the Gunung Junction hellish climb.
- Leave 500ml at Gunung Junction and bring 1.5L to KorGa
Side note: I brought watery fruit along this journey too like apples

(In some case, there is an exception, there a water tank in Korbu peak but it water is stagnant but there are rats there. And the water tank maybe dried up if you go during dry season. Use that water with caution! I did bring my life straw here and use it to drink the water here.)

Once you come back to Gunung Junction (30.1km), repack your bag and start heading toward Gunung Tok Nenek and prepared for more series of up and down! 

Gunung Junction (head down to Anak Junction after KorGa)

We reached Anak Junction (30.6km) and sleep here for an hour. Initially thought Anak Junction would be warmer as has a lower altitude compare to Gunung Junction itself, we were very wrong, it like a wind tunnel here and it was not a pleasant night to sleep. So take note others, it may actually be better to sleep at Junction Peak or if you can tahan, continue on for 2:30 hours and you will reach a very small empty land but wide enough for 4ppl that is much warmer to sleep at. (it took us 3 hours minus the sleep time to reach Lembah Agas from Gunung Junction).

There will be one more much bigger empty land which looks like a campsite and has a river which requires you to walk down around 3-4 minutes to it. This is not Camp Lembah Agas which is roughly less than 30 minutes away.

After all of that, we reached Camp Lembah Agas (34.6km) and had our breakfast here for around 40minutes. Refill our water and prepare ours hike up to Puncak View.

Anak Junction, worst place to sleep.


A campsite without any name (not Lembah Agas)
Turn left and walk down to a river, cross the river and start climbing toward Lembah Agas

Lembah Agas (Breakfast here & water point after a long period of time)
Camp Lembah Agas
From Lembah Agas, you will reach Puncak Bonsai Tengah (36km) and if you are lucky with the weather, you can see all the Titiwangsa Mountain Range here including all four G7 peak, Yong Belar, KorGa & Yong Yap.

Puncak Bonsai Tengah

Puncak Bonsai Tengah

Puncak Bonsai Tengah

Puncak Bonsai Tengah

After enjoying the view here, there is one more viewpoint along this trail. It may look near on the maps but it actually quite a distance and it took us one hour to reach it, otherwise known as Puncak View (38.5km).

(Side note: If you take a look in the attached GPX file or our route, we actually took a wrong turn down the hill at 36.6km. It was a good 150m downhill which is huge. The problem was not because the path is not clear but the path that took us to the wrong route was "clearer". And yes, the whole group mistook a turn here, so please be careful at 36.6km.)

Puncak View

Puncak View


Puncak View

After that it a short downhill to Camp D.G.U. aka Don't Give Up. You can choose to refill your water here or on the next water point which is roughly 2-4 hours away after Puncak Belumut. 


Camp DGU
Camp DGU

This is one of the tougher section of the V2, climbing Puncak Belumut. There is many mini false peaks and to make thing worst, there is literally no view on top here...

Puncak Belumut

Puncak Belumut
At Puncak Belumut, after walking around 5minutes or less, there is a junction. The junction going straight might be more obvious than the one going to the left. DON'T GO STRAIGHT!


After that, it another roughly 40m-1hours downhill to Camp Kacang. During this time, please keep an eye out of this campsite as it is not obvious and it not in the line of sight when you are descending. DO NOT MISS THIS CAMPSITE!

Once you reach here, do refill as much water here as the next water source will be after Gunung Yong Yap and yes, I know there is another water source at Camp Lopak which is in between Bubu and Tok Nenek, but same as Camp Cerek, the water source is very far.


Camp Kacang

Camp Kacang
Camp Kacang

After refilling and all, time to descend a bit more and climb all the way back up to Puncak Kambing. Roughly after an hour or two, you will reach the Puncak Kambing which is part of the trail of YYBTN! Turn right first to go Gunung Tok Nenek, take a few pictures and then U-turn back and complete your Trans-Titiwangsa V2 by passing Bubu and then Gunung Yong Yap!

The hike for YYBTN is covered in this blog:
https://keeminginsj.blogspot.com/2018/08/gunung-yong-yap-gunung-bubu-gunung-tok.html

Time log for this hike:

18th May,
9:45 Start
12:30 Camp Kasut
13:10 Yong Belar
13:55 Camp Kuali
16:30 Camp H2O (dinner 30m)
19:05 Gunung Junction
21:30 Simpang Proton
23:10 Gunung Korbu
.
19th May
01:27 Gunung Gayong
02:00 Camp Cerek (Nap 15m)
04:00 Gunung Junction
04:30 Anak Junction (Sleep 1 hour)
08:05 Camp Lembah Agas (breakfast 40m)
09:35 Puncak Bonsai Tengah
10:54 Puncak View
11:20 Camp DGU
13:05 Puncak Belumut
13:45 Camp Kacang (Lunch 30m)
15:30 Tok Nenek
18:00 Gunung Bubu (15m rest)
21:30 Gunung Yong Yap (30m rest)
23:50 Camp Balak Pecah (sleep 1 hour)
.
20th May
03:50 Camp Agas (Nap 15m)
07:05 Simpang YY/TN
09:25 End of hike

(47hours 40mins) [Our team front group managed to complete it in under 38 hours]

Food prepared for this hike:
-2.5L capacity of liquid
-7 Snicker Bars
-2 Apples (for the KorGa round trip as there is lack of water sources)
-9 Hutan Rations Bars
-Salt sticks
-1 Kembara Pack
-1 Can Baked Bean
-1 Energy Gel
-6 Extrajouss

If you do plan to do this hike "daypack" style, be very prepared both mentally and physically! If you feel there a need to abort mission cause of maybe bad weathers or team member don't feel comfortable anymore either at Korbu or Yong Belar or even at Tok Nenek, don't hesitate to do so. the trail can be very unforgiving and one small snowflake can cause a huge disaster in there.

We took 2 attempts to only finally complete it (our first attempt we had to abort at Tok Nenek), there are some took a few more, so don't worry if you can't complete it on your first attempt. But if everything goes well, I can guarantee you that satisfaction... I really can't describe in words.



Last edited:
9 June 2019